Friday, February 25, 2011

...and projects completed

I went back to Eldorado Canyon yesterday with Brock, Paul and Josh S. to get in some more bouldering before the forecast takes a turn for the worse today. We had perfect weather for hard climbing and it was probably right around freezing with a very light breeze the whole time we were in the canyon. We warmed up at the Milton boulder and gave anywhere from a few (me) to a great many (Brock) tries on Milton (V4). Paul came soooo close on his flash go and even closer a few times later as well, Josh worked out some very impressive short person beta for the last move, but couldn't quite stick the lip and Brock ran laps on the problem, including sending it via a dyno from the start holds. As for me, this problem is basically the opposite of my style: a couple technical/balancy slab moves to a dyno (at least with my beta). I'd done it previously and I was happy to do it once today and then save my strength for Resonated.


Eldorado Canyon Bouldering from Doug Lipinski on Vimeo.
Video and Edit by Paul Evans, thanks Paul!


After the long hike back to the car (~10 feet), we parked by the Gill Boulder and walked down to the Water Rock to give Resonated some more tries. I had to try some slightly altered topout beta since my hamstring is still not great after my last encounter with this problem. After Brock and I each did the top section once to make sure we wouldn't blow it after the crux, we started giving some serious tries from the start. The holds felt good, friction was high and psych was even higher. On my second go I fell on the long move out right, the crux for me and the last move before the much easier top section. Brock had a bunch of goes where he fell on that same move or while trying to set up for it. I decided to change my beta slightly where I had fallen before and pulled on for my third go. I honestly don't really remember the specifics of that next try. I just know the holds felt great, I hit everything perfectly and felt super strong. The next thing I know, I was hanging from the jug after the crux, staring down the top section of the problem and telling myself to really focus and not mess this up. A couple moves later, pumped but feeling solid, I was on top of my first V9! I guess that's what it's like to be "in the zone". What a great feeling and one of my favorite problems ever!

Not to be outdone, Brock committed to some beta he hadn't been sold on before and one or two goes later, he sent too! First V9! I'd like to go ahead and take credit for Brock's send too, since I cranked up the motivation and adrenaline to the next level with my send. Just kidding, awesome job Brock!

This boulder problem is pretty close to perfection in my opinion. Plus is fits my style almost perfectly. There are mostly decent holds, but a couple very difficult moves. There is one right hand crimp that's quite bad (and sharp, my only complaint), but it's good enough to crank on if your fingers are strong. There's also a terrible sloping sidepull/undercling for the left hand, but it's manageable with a good foot in opposition and then some subtle body positioning. The bottom (hard) section is overhanging, but not too steep and the setting is ideal, overhanging South Boulder Creek in the middle of Eldorado Canyon. Go do it NOW!

Unfortunately, I didn't get any video of my send. Paul had his video camera running and it recorded me taking my jacket off for the send, then the batteries died. Isn't that just magical, 60s more would have been enough. I'm disappointed, but how could I really be upset after a send like that. Fortunately, we got Brock's send on another camera (albeit with worse quality) and you can see that in the video above. Also, Josh ripped a HUGE flapper open on the sharp crimp to end his day. I guess tropical vacations aren't too good for the calluses. Heal up soon!

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