Thursday, June 10, 2010

New wall at The Spot

I finally got over to The Spot yesterday to check out their new wall, The Beach, and I thought I'd share my first impressions. This is the wall that was used for the Battle in the Bubble at the Boulder Reservoir and later reassembled in The Spot

The new Beach wall at The Spot, photo from The Spot Route Setting Blog
First of all, wall designs have obviously come a long way since people started building climbing walls with plywood and 2x4's and this is obviously a very cool wall. The colors add a nice effect, the texture is great and the prefabricated (fiberglass?) panels line up seamlessly and create some very cool shapes.

For now, I think just the novelty of the new wall makes it a lot of fun to climb on. Also, it's super tall, but the padding system is great and a fall from the top is no problem at all. However, I've always found that the best walls for training have simple shapes with consistent angles. It's also a lot easier (for me at least) to set fun, consistent problems on simple walls. The Spot probably has some of best setters in the country and they've done a great job of setting on this wall, but I'd be really interested to hear their opinions on setting on the new wall with its complex shapes.

La Sportiva Testarossa
On a related note, I was also able to try out my Testarossas for the first time after a resole. I've got to say, the guys at Rock and Resole really did a great job with these and I'd recommend them 100%. The down turned toe is back in full effect (much better than before the resole) and they seem almost as good as new. What's more, I had a two day turn around for the resole, dropped off Monday afternoon and picked up Wednesday afternoon. These are the original Testarossas from summer of 2003 (7 years!) and this is the first time I've had to resole them. I figure since I didn't climb much at all during some of that time and much more heavily at other times I may have averaged around 1 climbing session per week. That's well over 300 climbing sessions with only one other pair of shoes to use! Needless to say, either I have incredibly precise footwork (well, decently precise) or these shoes are seriously built to last (undeniably). Definitely the best pair I've ever climbed in.

1 comment:

  1. cool wall doug. and nice resoled shoes. sounds like you've gotten a lot of use out of 'em.